Buy Shimano CN-HG50 6/7/8-Speed Chain, Black

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List Price: $19.99
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There really isn't any one place to get all the information you need for this job, so here it is. Replacing a chain is easy and it's like riding a new bike. Very smooth pedaling. Highly recommended. It's a 15 minute job.

First, count the number of sprockets on the back wheel. Sprockets are the gears. For me it was 7.

That's the number you need to order. This is a 6/7/8 chain, so it will work if you have 6, 7 or 8 sprockets.

Next, decide which chain. The quality goes up with the numbers. 50, 60, 70, 91. This one, 50, is at the bottom.

You'll need a chain tool for about $12. I got the IceToolz Chain Tool 7-10 Speed Shimano HG/IG/UG chain tool, but note that the 7-9 size costs about half as much. Your chain tool should also have a number that matches any number on the chain (not the number of sprockets). My tool says 7-10, so with 7 as one of the sizes of the chain I'm good to go. Note that even if you have 6 sprockets, because this chain *could* fit 7, the 7-9 or 7-10 tool will work for a 6/7/8 chain. It would not work for a 5/6 chain because 5 and 6 are not within the 7-9 or 7-10 range of the tools.

A chain tool lets you break links and put links on. There is no such thing as a master link: you just use the links that are on the chain to connect to one another. One reviewer said he used a missing link you DON'T need a missing link or other kind of master link. The only thing a missing link will do is it will let you put the chain on without a tool, but putting the chain on with the tool is easy if you use the trick I describe below, so I'd skip the link and just buy the tool. If your chain is broke, you can use the missing link if you really want to otherwise, you'll need the tool to pull the chain off, so you can use it to connect the chain without a missing link. Connecting the chain is trivial.

You might also want disposable gloves probably two pair. The new chain is greasy. You'll probably want a newspaper to put the old greasy chain on, a cable tie or twisty tie to tie back the deraileur and a zip lock bag to put the extra links from the new chain in for storage. You may want to consider cleaning your rear gears when the chain comes off. I carefully use carburator cleaner, avoiding getting any into the hub by just spraying the bottom.

Take the chain out of the box it's in a plastic bag. Find the extra pins that come with it. Save those for emergencies, you don't need them now.

Shift to the smallest diameter sprocket, front and back. Note where the chain goes: it's usually over the top derailer sprocket and then under the bottom one.

Now, here's the difference between a 15 minute easy job and a half hour of problems: pull the rear derailer all the way forward and use a wire or cable tie to tie it to the bike frame.

The chain links are connected by pins. Pick any one on the old chain and use the tool to push it through. Pull the chain off. If you want to clean the rear gears, now is the easiest time to do it.

Hold the old chain up to the new one with the top ends matched and find the link on the new one that matches the last link on the old one. Be careful: a very old chain will have stretched a bit, and so you may have to match the links halfway down the chain so that you get the same *number of links*, not the same *length* chain of a stretched chain.

Hold what should be the last link of the new chain with your fingers and set down the old chain. Push the lower pin on the link you are holding completely out of the new chain. The lower pin is the one that connects the link you are holding with the next one, the first one you don't need.

String the end of the new chain through the sprocket and derailer, starting with the end that has no pin. The other end has the pin sticking out of it so that you can push it right back in to link it, but with that pin sticking out, you can't thread that side through, so use the side with no pin to thread it through the deraileurs. If you can, you want the pin sticking out on the other end to be facing away from the bike, but it's not fatal if it's not. Note that the chain will be threaded *through* the bike frame: you can only string it through before you connect it: you can't connect it and then get it on the bike somehow. The two ends of the chain should be hanging down. Note the chain needs to go through the front deraileur, and if there is a tab sticking in between the top and bottom sprocket of the rear deraileur, the chain will go inside the tab.

Match up the links and place them together. If they won't go together, separate the open end a bit with your fingers, and then slide the open end over the midpoint of the link on the other end, then pull it back to the proper position so that the ends line up.

Use the chain tool to push the pin sticking out back in fully so that it lines up with the others on the chain. The two end links should swing somewhat freely (though not as much as the others): you may have to push the pin in a little more or push it out from the other side. Now work the link up and down and side to side to get it to swing a bit more freely. (You'll note a reviewer below points out that you have to use a special pin, but I don't believe that's true until the chain breaks: the special pin is already installed sticking out when you receive this chain, so that all that is necessary is to push it fully in to install. If the chain breaks, he is correct that you have to replace the pin you use to connect the links with one of their pins).

Undo the wire or cable tie you used to hold the derailer forward against the bike frame. Save the extra links in a zip lock bag and the extra pins that came with the chain.

Get a chain lubricant and lube the chain. The grease on the chain will last a few miles: it's primarily a rust inhibitor. I use Tri Flow oil, but I'm not a super serious biker. More serious bikers will want something pricier.

Ride about a mile to let the oil work its way in to the nooks and crannies of your chain, then take a paper towel or rag and wipe the excess oil off. This will keep the road dirt from attaching to the oil, gunking up the chain and grinding it down.

The "new bike feel" really comes from having a new chain (it's very smooth to pedal) and a fully adjusted set of brakes with new pads. I changed the pads, and adjusted my brakes, and a used bike I bought with a rusted chain really felt like new.

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This is a well built chain from a reputable company. It's not one of Shimano's best chains, but will serve the purpose and is reasonably priced. I'm giving it three stars, though, because I found Shimano's included instructions more confusing than helpful. A previous reviewer supplied relatively detailed and generally helpful instructions, but he also included some relatively significant misinformation. He was correct in his description of a "master link" (and the absence of such master links in most chains), but incorrect in his understanding of how cut links are joined. Older chains allowed users to choose any rivet to remove and replace. Newer chains have rivets that are peened (mushroomed at the outer plate). Extruding those pins destroys the peened surface and weakens the chain (if the same pin is pressed back into the link). Shimano provides special joining pins that must be used to connect links (and those pins are then permanent...if you need to remove the chain, you need another joining pin). The problem with the Shimano instructions is that there are at least 4 different styles of joining pins available, and each pin requires a slightly different installation (some are left slightly extruded, some must be flush, some are longer, etc.). The instructions include information about all of the pins, but it's difficult to match up the product number on the package with the instruction sheet. Even the Shimano website is confusing (three different information sheets for this particular chain, depending on a model number that is not evident on the packaging). I chose to keep my pin edges flush with the outer plates. Updates to follow, if the chain fails.

Best Deals for Shimano CN-HG50 6/7/8-Speed Chain, Black

I bought this chain to replace a snapped one on my 2012 Specialized Hardrock SE. There isn't too much to this chain, its a very basic and low-level chain that will work with many entry-level bikes, though you should definitely double check to make sure it'll work with your drivetrain.

The only real issue I had with it was partly my fault I left the chain at its original length, thinking that it "looked about right" and then joined it together. Turns out, it was too long and when in lower gears the derailleur is fully contracted and the chain rubs on itself, not good! Since this chain uses a break-off pin to connect, it means that you'll have to use another pin if you ever want to disassemble the chain for cleaning or to shorten in. If a couple pins were included, this might not be a big deal but you only get one with the chain itself. So I had to spend $9 for a 3-pack of extra chain pins, not ideal.

So overall it'll work nothing fancy, no powerlink or handy features, but at this price point I'd say its a good deal. If Shimano would include an extra pin or two, maybe I'd even give it 5 stars!

Honest reviews on Shimano CN-HG50 6/7/8-Speed Chain, Black

Got this for my Next mountain bike (after 1000 miles I wore out the original chain). Good replacement chain for the money. It was easy to install using the Topeak Super Bicycle Chain Tool I ordered at the same time.

I would recommend this chain and the Topeak Super Bicycle Chain Tool to a friend.

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this chain is perfect for 8 speed road bikes. if you are installing yourself make sure you have a chain break tool because the chain is oversized and will need to be shortened

Best Loaded AmXC Wheel 135mm Spacing Skewer Set Deals

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Ordered gray and received a golden brown. They look as if they would function well, but I'm not putting these hideous things on my bike...

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Great Looking and work great. Bought a set for my girlfriend' bike she loved them. We have to remove our front wheels to place them in our bike carrier and they work better than my sram skewers.

Cheap X Factor 3-Inch Bicycle Generator Light Set

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List Price: $19.99
Sale Price: $17.18
Today's Bonus: 14% Off

The generator was much better than expected. I had a more powerful unit that could not withstand the elements (rain, mud, etc.) but this unit, although less powerful, is rugged.

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I bought one of these and set it up on my bicycle back when they carried the BELL brand name, but it's the same unit now that it's sold under the X Factor brand name.

This light is easy to install and set up. Clamp the front bracket to your front forks and adjust so that the bottle dynamo driveshaft is in line with a radius line drawn from the axle. Attach the rear light similarly. Be sure that the ground screw goes into the frame enough that you have a nice circuit or else it won't work. I think a lot of people don't know what the ground screw is for.

String the wire between the generator and the headlamp and the generator and the rear lamp and off you go.

I ride my bicycle for exercise very early in the morning and this system throws plenty of bright white light with the halogen bulb. People can see you better than with reflectors and you can see them. You can also see objects in the road, potholes, cracks, puddles, etc. I really do think it's very, very bright. The rear light gives off a nice bright red glow as bright as the tail light on a car or motorcycle, though it is a lot smaller.

It does turn off when you are not in motion because it is driven by friction from the wheel turning. I have an auxiliary battery-powered rear light for that, but also reflectors keep you visible.

For $20, you really can't go wrong. They do create a bit of noticeable drag depending upon how heavy your bike is, but it's not bad. Since I ride my bike for exercise, the extra drag is good.

Bulbs last a long time if it's wired up well and maintained well (make sure those contacts are clean and bright!). I bought and installed my first one of these back in 2003 and have ridden my bike an hour and a half a day three to four times a week in that time and I haven't had to replace a bulb yet. You can get bulbs on line pretty easily or at reflectalight on the web.

Installing this kit will double the value of your old 1970s era Columbia!

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Thought I was getting a good deal with the price. Good price, but the product is lacking in quality. Used it a couple times, then once I got above 20 mph riding the generator wouldn't produce a charge. Overheated very easily. If you gently ride and know how to install it's worth the money, but if you're like me and do a lot of fast riding then it's not worth it. Would have scored higher with a better review if the product was better made.

Honest reviews on X Factor 3-Inch Bicycle Generator Light Set

One issue I had is No Instruction!!! it is very difficult to install this thing.

-This generator is designed to be mounted at the front so the headlight has a shorter wire than the taillight.

In my case, my front fork is too fat so I had to mount it at the back. Then I found out the only way I could

do that is to mount it on the left side (the side without the chain ). It is the only place that you can mount

the dynamo so that when you press the lever it should swing toward the tire to engage the dynamo.

-I also realize that by mounting it at the back, my headlight wire will not reach the dynamo bottle. Also

I would have extra wire length for the tail light; so I had to improvise. Note that each light and the dynamo

has only one positive terminal. The negative terminal is the bike frame so make sure you have good electrical

contact with the bike.

--I figured out how to mount the dynamo but the lights, I had to strap it to the bike using plastic zip ties.

I just don't know how to do it otherwise. I ended up with some screws and bracketts that I had no clue what

to do with them. You may find yourself making a trip to the hardware store to make this work.

-While I tested it worked well enough. The lights are not supper bright but good enough. One thing I like

is the friction wheel (drive wheel) is very quiet. I could hardly hear it or feel it. Note the lights are Not LED.

I opened up and check.

-The drive wheel is plastic but it is hard enough that I don't think it will wear out easily.

-I also tested the voltage with a meter. It can go as high as 9V AC no load, and the current is 0.5 Amps so there

is some extra margin. After you connect the light, the voltage will drop.

Here are some numbers:

The friction wheel diameter is 19 mm which mean if you bike at 15 km / hour or 10 mile / hour, it will turn

at 4200 RPM

The dynamo bottle has two diameters: 4cm and 1.4cm

The total heigh is 8cm and the heigh of the lower part is 3.2cm

fairly small dynamo bottle.

Overall it works fine, if you want a cheap generator. Personaly I would go for the 12V 6W dynamo.

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I own an older light set and dynamo (Made in "West Germany") that I pulled off of an old race bike. I got a new bike so I figured let me purchase a new dynamo to compliment it.

My first complaint with this product is that after a certain speed it cuts out. I haven't experienced this with any other generator, but it's extremely inconvenient when you pick up speed as things are getting dark and the light cuts out. To remedy this in I substituted the old dynamo back.

After my second ride, my lights began to flicker after hitting some bumps in the trails (bad connections). Tightened everything up but the plastic bulb holder inside the tail light cracked on me rendering the light useless. So, I substituted the old red light in the back.

As of now I am three days into using the product and 2/3 of the product is already out of commission/not being used. The front light seems to be holding up, but the only problem is when I adjust it it temporarily loses connection and I'll have to tap it to get it running again (happens with bumps too, so I'll have to open him up and see if everything is tight inside).

Overall, I trust the deals in Amazon, they always treated me well. This product though is a perversion of the older dynamo's that used to be sold. At least it shipped to my house quickly :-/.

Cheap Radio Flyer 2 in 1 Trike

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List Price: $89.99
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Today's Bonus: 12% Off

I recently bought this at Toys R Us for my four year old son and he's been having a blast with it. He's on the small side (36" and 30lbs) and he's had a lot of trouble reaching the pedals on some tricycles and small bikes with training wheels set on the lowest setting.

I read a lot of helpful reviews on all the trikes and bikes on Amazon.com and saw how this model got high marks. I wanted to make sure my son could reach the pedals and ride on it before I went ahead and bought one, so we headed to Toys R Us and hopped on a display model. He could reach the pedals whether we had in the tricylce or the big wheel/"chopper" mode and he biked around the display area with no problem. It was a proud moment for me, since all his little friends (who are all about a head taller than him) have no problem reaching pedals and riding their big-kid bikes around.

The store had none in stock so I asked if they'd sell me the display and they did. They wouldn't give me a discount since the display was pretty new but they usually charge $10 for in-store assembly, but they would just charge me the regular price. Not a great leap in customer service, but I didn't care. It was $59.00, which seems like a lot to me for a plastic bigwheel, but since we have THREE other trikes and bikes sitting in the garage that he can't ride or reach the pedals, it was worth every penny.

He's starting to build up more and more momentum each time he rides and it's very sturdy, no to mention so easy to twist and flip into the different positions.

Highly reccomded!

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My daughter received this trike for her 2nd birthday (in pink). It is really cute and she wanted to ride it immediately. Unfortunately, even though the manufacturer claims it is appropriate for a two year old, it is way too big. She can just reach the pedals, but not turn them. She is in the 98% in height so I can't imagine there are many two year olds who this would work for. Buy a smaller trike for a two year old.

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My son loves this trike, however after converting it to a trike and adjusting the seat back and forth between the 3 available positions, he began complaining that it was hurting his lower back, he asked me to take the seat off, the next morning I discovered while giving him his bath that he had 3 nasty looking bruises on his lower back from the seat rest. Just something everyone should be aware of.

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My 2 year old LOVES this bike. It is a great size for a 2 year old. The bike is kind of tall compared to other trikes for this age group, so he feels like he is riding a "big boy" bike.

My husband cursed a little more than usual while assembling it, but overall the assembly process looked easy enough to me.

Highly reccomend this bike!!!!

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I bought this for my nephew, who would then pass it on to his brother & then my neice and whoever else is born. We tried it as a Big Wheel, but my nephew's legs were not long enough yet (he just turned 3 this summer), so my brother in law changed it to a trike & it works great! We took it to the boardwalk in Rehoboth and he just had a blast going down the boardwalk, coming back my Mom & I held it (lol!) but it was light enough and no problems. It is really a great item & would highly recommend it and easy to switch back & forth (of course I don't do that, but I didn't hear any complaints from my brother-in-law so all is good).