Best Sturmey Archer S30 3-Speed 36h, Silver with Coaster Brake Deals

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The Strumey Archer S30 3 speed hub with coaster brake is with in the general class of 3 speed hubs as refined and perfect a internally geared hub as you can find anywhere. There are other 3 speed hubs available and in terms of build quality durability and function they may possibly be as good as the Strumey Archer, but none are superior in any respect, and in the realm of aesthetic they fall woefully short. You can thank Sunrace for maintaining continuity with the decades of innovation aesthetic refinement and build quality that made Sturmey Archer world renowned. The only appropriate hub for the restoration of my 62 year old Dutch Hartog 3 speed this hub has proven to be flawlessly smooth almost fluid in shifting and operation with a solid sturdy braking action that is not spongy like the original British made unit. Its so smooth in fact that at first it was difficult for me to tell what gear I was in. In direct comparison with a 1966 British made Sturmey Archer on my 47 year old Dunelt this new hub is certainly its equal and in smoothness superior. I would also be tempted to believe that the gear ratio is some how improved but on paper it is supposed to be the same so the greater speed and effortless hill climbing must simply be a product of it being new or perhaps the improved bearings. I would heartily recommend any product from Sturmey Archers impressive catalog, however you will see next to nothing of there products here in the USA because of short sighted target marketing in Europe and the painful imbecility of a US market dominated by over priced high volume Chinese product. It would be nice to see some one with a little innovation lead the crowd instead of follow. Maybe we can convince Trek to start making there own frames in the USA again and start putting some of the terrific Sturmy Archer hubs back on American roads.

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Sweet hub, super smooth shifting.

NOTE... This hub is really nice for cruisers since the 2nd gear is about the same gear ratio as a standard 1 speed hub so you end up with one gear lower and one gear higher with a standard one speed ratio in the middle. Comes with everything you need to install once you get spokes and a rim on it. I updated a 1954 Schwinn cruiser with this kit and it couldn't be better.

Best Deals for Sturmey Archer S30 3-Speed 36h, Silver with Coaster Brake

I posted the pics the other day and it's time now to review this hub.

Shifting is way smooth. Very unlike an old school 3 speed.

I'm heavy which is why I need to get riding again and at 280 pounds the brake

was good. Not mind blowing but I blame my weight.

I'm gonna lower my front sprocket down to a 36 tooth till I start losing some

weight then move to a 40 then to my current 44 tooth because that 3rd gear

is a FAST gear and right now I need easier pedaling.

But that's what's great about 3 speed hubs. Just tailor the grearing by switching sprockets.

My hub came with an 18 tooth sprocket btw.

Really a good buy for the money and your gear shift cable reaches your ape hangers no problem.

Take a look at my pics.

THANKS NIAGRA!!

Honest reviews on Sturmey Archer S30 3-Speed 36h, Silver with Coaster Brake

this hub is pretty awesome. i took the back wheel off, unlaced the spokes, and took the new hub and rim to a bike shop and they rebuilt it for me. all i had to do was set up the grip shifter, and connect the cables. easy peasy. it looks great on my old cruiser, and defiantly makes hills easier to climb. i live in a kinda hilly area, and i wasn't riding my cruiser much because it was a single speed and kind of a pain, but now that its a three speed i ride it all the time.

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I have three Sturmey Archer 3 speed bikes from the '60s and '70s that still shift well, but this new Sturmey Archer coaster brake 3 speed I installed on my cruiser tank bike shifts more seamlessly and easily. My only issue is that you have to stop pedaling to shift or it wont shift gears, but that is a small issue. It looks great on the my black Schwinn Cruiser. The cables going into the rear hub have a nice cover that lets it blend into the bike. Unless you looked at the handlebar gear selector, the bike would pass for a single speed look wise. The gearing works well for mild grade hills, and the overdrive 3rd gear is nice too.

Buy IZIP Ultra Electric Bike - 2011 Model

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I should mention, this is the 1st time I've owned an electric bike. I wish I had gotten better advice on what to expect from these things.

The Good: In electric mode, the motor does deliver a good deal torque on level ground. The torque sensor works pretty well. One thing to keep in mind only turn the the controller on while off the bike and no pressure on the chain ring. I found the 10AH battery to be very generous and I was able to beat the 25 mile range several times.

This bike is overall poor quality. The brake and gear cables snag and bind. The rear derailer was out of line when I bought it, and I still cant get it to line up. For me, this is one of those "find a good gear and stick with it" bikes.

The inner tubes had to be replaced the tubes that came with bike were filled with Slime. Slime tubes on a $2,000 bike? Anyway, the Slime had settled to the bottom of the tire, froze, and both wheels were horribly out of balance. This out of balance caused the one disc rotor to warp. Now, the thing has become a money pit. I think the Slime settling may be a big factor in slowing the bike down. If you buy one of these, replace the tubes while you charge the battery up.

Going up a slope for more that 50 yards and the motor will cut off. This is a problem, you see, the bike weighs 60 lbs. and now I have to granny gear this thing up the rest of the hill. When the motor is off, the rear wheel has considerable drag. DON'T USE THIS BIKE TO CLIMB BIG HILLS it handled short hills fine.

EDIT: I found that when the motor shuts down on hills: power down the controller, get off the bike, power it back up, get back on the bike, and the electric assist works for me the rest of the way up the hill. I don't know enough about electric bike to say if this is acceptable or not, but this the only thing that works for me so far.

Also, with all the drag on the back wheel, the poor quality cables, the Slime and an additional 30 lbs, this bike is not very useful without engaging the electric motor. After about 3 miles on human power, I found it better to get off and walk the bike. Plan your trips well, you don't want to try to make it home on human power. The batteries are not detachable, so you'll have to go home to get the car to haul this thing home.

I so hate myself for buying this bike; what was I thinking?

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I have been riding this bike for a few months now and it is a lot of fun. I've begun using it as my main form of transportation around the city. My 8mile ride to work only takes 25-30 minutes and I don't have to break a sweat if I don't want to. I did the 16 miles round trip on a full charge with full power assistance and 3 of the 5 battery indicators were still lit. The power assist can keep you pegged around 20mph and I've broken 30mph downhill. Passing other bikers struggling up a hill while I leasurely fly by is quite entertaining and even gets some comments like "cheater" occasionally. The bike gets checked out everywhere I park it and usually gets some questions.

It's an expensive bike and I know there are some less expensive electric bikes out there but this one has just been a joy. It's fast, fun, and gets me where I need to go for pennies per mile. I only have one complaint. After I put a rear cargo bag on the bike something about the weight seems to throw off the bikes stability. If I try to ride with no hands the front wheel will start to oscillate. I think the light weight flexible materials that the front fork is made of cause som sort of resonance. Probably safer to ride with your hands on the bar anyway.

ADDITIONAL REVEW: I have started using this bike much more often and I recently passed the 500 mile mark. I have begun having major spoke breakage problems on the rear wheel. Spokes have broken 3 times. The second time I had the whole wheel retentioned and within 40 miles another spoke broke. Now im having the wheel rebuilt THE RIGHT WAY. I have researched wheel building and the problem is clear. The rear wheel has 13 guage spokes when the hub holes were clearly drilled for a larger guage spoke. Because of this the spoke head sits at an angle and the "knee" of the spoke doesn't sit flush against the hub. This puts major stress on the spoke knees and is a common reason for spoke breakage. Every spoke that broke was on the knee. These spokes should have been built much better from the factory. Im being generous and only subtracting 1 star for this because I have really enjoyed the rest of the bike. I've already spent over $100 on spoke repairs and now I will be spending even more to have the wheel hand built with stronger 12 guage spokes.

FINAL REVIEW AFTER A YEAR OF USE: IZIP ended up giving me a whole new rear wheel with the motor for free and I was using it while my 12 guage wheel was being built. After a week I had my hand built 12 guage wheel and after a year and several thousand miles the bike has been perfect. Not a single issue.

Best Deals for IZIP Ultra Electric Bike - 2011 Model

I have been riding this bike because my neighbor wants to try My Busettii and the IZIP Ultra is a dog on both hill climbing and range. With no pedaling it will stop dead on any hill with over 4% slope (which is every hill). My Busettii and my friends E+ will go up really big hills (18% slopes) with no pedaling all. For $2400 they should give you a much bigger battery ! 36volts 10 ah is a kiddie wimpy battery. The Busettii Big 50 mile comes with a 52 volt 15 ah which is more than double the power for just $1790 or $700 cheaper than the Izip Ultra. Basically Currie is giving you a $300 battery on a $2400 bike which is too much like a scam. There are just too many bikes for less than $2400 that will give a much bigger motor, battery and warranty for $600--$800 less money. If you ride the bikes before you buy them it will be easy for you to see what I"m talking about. Good luck !

Best Michelin Pro 3 Race Road Tire Deals

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Put these tires on bike. Ride 2000 miles. Repeat. All of 2 flats in 2 sets that's it. Light, tough, puncture resistant when properly inflated (110-115 psi). Joe-bob sez: check em out.

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After years of riding the Pro Race 2 on my Giant TCR C1 with Mavic Equipe and Elite wheels I decided to go

with the Pro race 3 on my Kestrel RT-800 and my Columbus steel cafe bike. Here's the skinny: there are no

grippy-er tires on the market. Rain or shine these are the best. The tread is very durable, in spite of the

stickiness, which is very cool.

However, the puncture resistance is poor. The sidewall strength is poor. I have had too many pinch flats going

through potholes in the city. I keep them pumped up above 110# to combat the flaws in our pavement here in SF

and get decent rolling resistance for my 170# weight (my top weight has been 178#). But I still get bead breaks

and pinch flats.

They are extremely light. This makes them fast in a race. However, the max pressure is only 116#'s which is low

for a race tire at this price point. My other wheels with Vittoria Diamante Pros, which go safely to 145#'s

offer less rolling resistance and have NEVER had a flat.

Since I no longer race I am changing tires to the Diamante Pro and the Ultremo DD.

Best Deals for Michelin Pro 3 Race Road Tire

I have been riding on these tires for 4 weeks now. I live in a very crowded area where there are lots of road debris; for the amount that the tires had to endure, I am very satisfied with the results so far. When I used to ride with cheap tires, I did not suffer from external punctures that often. But when I did, glass would be found embedded deep into the previous tires I used.

With the Pro 3's, I have not experienced one single puncture so far. I am impressed with the way these tires were designed. Although the front one is developing some cuts, the tires have proven that: one, they effectively shield against glass; two, the inner layers are resistant enough to withstand piercing, even if the outer layer is cut (the outer layer of any tire is going to be cut at some point, under harsh conditions).

Do yourself a favor and give the Michelins a try. Replacing several tubes and applying multiple patches can end up costing more money and time in the long term, more so than expensive tires that reduce puncture risk to a minimal level, so you might as well buy high-end tires.

Honest reviews on Michelin Pro 3 Race Road Tire

Terrific rolling resistance, good tread life (about 3000 miles), smooth riding, and very puncture resistant. Michelin Pro Race 3 is my new standard tire for high performance riding on all my bikes. If I got back into racing these would be my tires there also. Switched from Continental Grand Prix about 3 years ago. I'm amazed about how much difference these tires make. Better to put a few bucks here than just about anywere else for a serious cyclist.

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When I first put these tires on, I loved how much quicker and light they felt, especially when climbing. Cornering was about the same as my previous Bontrager Race. However, the sidewalls on these are paper thin and cannot take a pounding. I think it's because I'm 6'4" about 215lbs, and if I hit a large enough bump or pothole at speed, then a tire is going down. I called Michelin and sent my first set of tires to them. They replaced them for free which was great. I use Michelin Kryliums in the winter and have not had a flat. I changed to the new Pro 3 Race they sent me and went on a quick ride, 7 miles and my front sliced open!

If you are heavier or ride on harsh roads, these are not for you.