Avenir Threaded Presta 48Mm Valve Tube Reviews

Customer Ratings:

I ordered 2 of these tubes in the 700 x 23-25c size. They came individually packaged in orange boxes. One of the boxes was a bit darker orange than the other one and I also took notice that the darker box was stamped made in Thailand whereas the lighter orange box was stamped made in Taiwan. Upon opening the boxes it became apparent that the tubes were very, very different.

The one made in Taiwan felt lighter and the material more supple. It wasn't stiff and the material felt of even thickness throughout the length of the tube.

On the other hand, the one stamped made in Thailand felt much heavier, rough, not supple and felt it was of uneven thickness throughout its entire length. Additionally, it has size markings that conflict with each other.

I put some air in each tube and it's apparent these tubes are not at all alike in quality. The Taiwan made tube is much, much better. It feels of even thickness throughout its length. The Thailand made tube feels like sections tubes of different thicknesses and materials bonded together to form one tube. When aired up, the two tubes look nothing alike.

These are so cheap I don't think I'll bother to return the one tube but will look elsewhere for tubes in the future.

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The three Avenir tubes I ordered and received looked nothing like the photograph. They are extremely thick, not appropriate for lightweight bikes that use 700x23/25. Each tube was jammed into a box in a haphazard way, probably before the rubber was completely cured, so they took a permanent twisted and tangled "set."

Each tube was evidently twisted during deflation immediately after manufacture. Even if I inflated the tubes, then stretched them out, and tried deflating them flat so they could be coiled flat and carried in a under-saddle spares bag, I was unsuccessful. I wasted *far* more time in labor than the price difference between these Avenir and quality tubes such as Michelin or Continental.

After all that wasted time, any one of the Avenir tubes would not fit in a saddle bag except by itself. I gave them to a friend who wanted heavy tubes for her toss-around errand bike, warning her about my experience.

Shame on Avenir for making and packaging such poor quality product. Shame on Amazon and the partner vendor for depicting it with the deceptive photo that looks fine. But most of all, shame on me if I ever buy another Avenir tube sight unseen from Amazon.

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I received these and the packaging was fine (no damage to the box or anything). However they were kind of bulky and heavier than expected for a bike tube. They seemed old and "tough", but that was just my gut feeling (hard to tell). Not as flexible as the tubes that I am used to.

Then when I started to inflate them it got bad fast. Just at low pressure ~10 PSI (these should be able to go past 30 PSI and road tubes generally run at ~120 PSI) I noticed a large bulge and tire non-uniformity. Before I could deflate the tube it exploded in my face, and quite loudly. My housemates thought I had died or something. I'm really glad that it didn't destroy my bike tire, as what happened a few years ago (the explosion can rip a hole in your tire).

I was more cautious with the second tube. At REALLY low pressure I noticed more bulging with the tire as I VERY slowly inflated it. That one looked like it was ready to pop right away, so I stopped inflating.

These tubes are going back and I don't think I'll be ordering any more online, which is a shame... the process sounded very convenient.

Honest reviews on Avenir Threaded Presta 48Mm Valve Tube

I ordered two of these tubes (700x25C), and like a previous reviewer, I got one manufactured in Taiwan and another from Thailand.

The one from Taiwan seems to be of very good quality, with uniform thickness and a good feel to it. The one from Thailand is much thicker, stiffer, and was twisted in the box. I weighed the tubes on my postal scale, and the Thai tube weighs a full ounce (25%) more than the Taiwanese one. I put the heavier tube on my rear tire. Maybe it will help reduce flats, but I'm not counting on it.

That said, both fit my rims/tires, and both valve stems seem to be of reasonable quality. The longer stems fit well with my deep "aero" rims.

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These tubes are exactly as described. No fitting issues, stems were strait and valves work perfectly.

Cheap Adams Trail a Bike - Original Folder

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $196.00
Sale Price: $193.77
Today's Bonus: 1% Off

I purchased the Adams Trail-a-Bike so my 3.5 year old son and I could go riding together. I researched all the available models and liked this design the best (I'm an engineer), but could not decide on which size would be best for my son (Compact or Original). So I called the company and got REAL person that actually understood the product to answer my questions.

But I was leary of purchasing the Trail-a-Bike without any customer reviews. So I decided to purchase a Wee-Ride Co-Pilot from a local store because I could return it if there were problems (such as described by other Amazon customers). Good thing. The Wee-Ride assembly prevented the U-joint hitch from moving. I tried loosening the bolt but my good tools only made the Allen head hexagonal flats into a circle (the bolt was made of mild steel). So I returned the bike and the other one in the store had the same tight u-joint problem. So I left without a bike.

Now Chritmas to fast approaching, so I ordered the Trail-a-Bike from Seasonal Outfitters through Amazon. It was shipped super quick and arrived a day early.

I wish I had not wasted two trips (purchase and return) in buying the Wee-Ride model. The Adams Trail-a-Bike is an excellent design and well built. The hitch/u-joint and the folding mechanism are what separate this trailer bike from the others. One quick connect clamp allows the bike to fold and to ajust the seat height. Even though it is easily loosened for folding, it is very secure because the natural pull by the lead bike tries to keep the bikes straight.

The hitch has different size inserts to securely grip the lead bike's seat post without allowing the clamp to crush the seat post and make it out-of-round. The hitch is cylindrical with a square post in the center. This makes a very stable connection but one that can easily slide apart when the hitch pin is removed. The connection on the Wee-Ride required a hammer to slide the hitch apart. I can easily make the connection with one hand while holding my bike from falling over. It works so good I would suggest buying a 2nd hitch Adams Trail-A-Bike Hitch With Shims, Replacementso that two bikes can be set up to pull the child's Trail-a-Bike.

I have pulled my son about 10 miles on 3 trips. He loves it. He is very stable and the Trail-a-Bike even goes around corners well. The u-joint even allows me to take sidewalk ramps to the street while making sharp turns without a problem. He is currently too small to peddle, but he can place his feet on the peddles when the seat is at the lowest position and I have turned the handle bar as low as possible.

I only have to remember to keep my speed down to the recommended level because I can't be sure that my son might see something interesting and decide to get off without telling me. That is why he has a helmet, knee and elbow pads.

Overall this was a good purchase.

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The Adams Trail-a-Bike is a terrific product: sturdy, well-constructed, with a nice look about it. Naturally, I purchased the bike for use with my 4 year old. I had considered the cheaper tag along bike offered by Amazon (another brand than Adams), but instead decided a bike for your toddler is not the item to go cheap on. I'm glad I went for the Adams (although I still think the price on this one is quite reasonable.) The bike comes folded up and requires some basic assembly. Took me 15 minutes to put it together ... nothing complicated.

Perhaps the niftiest feature of the bike is the universal joint connection to the lead back, which allows for up and down and side to side movement, but no leaning movement either left or right. The joints are stiff enough to make for smooth turns and ups and downs, but loose enough (obviously) to allow turning at all. I had no trouble mounting the mount on my bike's seat stem.

My four year old took the bike in about 2 minutes. We practiced in the driveway, then took it easy on our quiet street. We discussed pedaling/coasting, and how important it was to hold on tight even when it feels like she might fall (the sensation of leaning to one side or another). After just a minutes, she had it and we've been riding ever since.

There is a little play in the universal joint that, when translated all the way down the bike, can give it a little bit of lean either way ... but it is minimal.

Bottom line: great product for a great price. Take the time to "train" your kid how to ride it and you'll enjoy hours of riding together. My daughter's favorite part? The flag that comes with it and mounts on the back.

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After reading many reviews we bought this bike for my almost four year old daughter. At first she was scared to get on, but after a few days of taking short rides she was comfortable and asking to go on longer rides. Now she loves it! This Adams trail-a-bike turns very well without problems and seems very safe. The only problem would be if the child was not old enough or coordinated enough to hold on tight. Other brands of bike trailers had been reviewed as being "wobbly", but this one is not. The child can choose to either pedal or not pedal during the ride.

There are two models of this bike, this is the 20" larger version designed for 4-6 year olds. There is also a compact version that is two inches smaller, designed for 3-5 year olds. My daughter is 3 years and 9 months old and a bit tall for her age. We have the seat all the way down, and she is just barely tall enough to pedal comfortably. I am glad we got the bigger version, though. I think we will be using this for family bike rides for quite a few years.

Our bike arrived within 5 days and took my husband about 20 minutes to put together and attach to my bike. You can buy an extra attachment so that the bike can be easily switched from one parent's bike to the other.

Honest reviews on Adams Trail a Bike - Original Folder

On receipt of this product it was found to be missing the ball race on the right side. The sprocket was pulled snug to the frame and the pedals would not turn at all. Mistakes happen. The short story is that this CANADIAN product is assembled in CHINA. NORCO who owns the name ADAMS trail-a-bike, stated they do not "Necessarily authorize their products to be sold online". Which apparently means they do, except when there is a problem. The company will not directly deal with customers, and my "local" distributor (a two hour drive away) delayed the shipment of the part, which retails at less than $5.00, for over a week. A call back revealed that they never even checked their inventory. Surprise they didn't have it. Norco then shipped me a ball race set from the tire, despite explicit details given them. Unless there is some confusion about "the ball race on the pedal crank arm, right side" After five weeks I finally got my correct part. since it had to be shipped from CHINA back to CANADA to get to ILLINOIS, as NORCO does not stock parts for their own products on this side of the PACIFIC. I waited to post this until the issue was resolved. If someone from NORCO reads this, I am contacting every agency I can think of or find to report your feloniously poor customer service, and VERY misleading claims as to the country of origin.

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I got this bike for my son. I took it out of the box and the pedals turned VERY roughly. I ended up dissembling the bottom bracket to find the crank side ball race was mangled and two of the bearings were loose in the bottom bracket housing. The cause appeared to be a very loose retaining nut holding the sprocket to the crank. I called the manufacturer (Norco) for a replacement ball race, a $5 part, and they said that Amazon is not an authorized dealer so there is no warranty. I am returning the entire thing to Amazon now for a refund.

Cheap YBIKE Explorer Go-Kart

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $199.99
Sale Price: $179.79
Today's Bonus: 10% Off

Purchased this for our boys 6 year birthday present.

When getting it out of the box we were impressed, seems well made, rubber wheels, simple design. It was rather easy to put together, only taking 15-20 minutes. Once together we had our concerns about its capable speeds. There is no gear or sprocket, just the simple U shaped thin bar axle/pedal system... so it is not capable of bicycle speeds and seems limited as to how fast a little boys can actually pedal the thing. I am not sure how long before our boy gets bored with it, but it has been over a month and he still prefers that over his regular bike.

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The bike is great. It reminds me of the beach pedal cars. The seat is adjustble as your child grows. Way more fun than the traditional bike, because you need to use the handles (up or down) to steer. Also a good way to challenge your child's hand/eye coordination that is a form of excercise that is not an electronic game. Also, because the bike has three wheels and is low to the ground, it would be great for kids with balance issues or are just not ready for a two wheeled bike. Because it is so low to the ground I would recommend a flag on a pole attached to the bike for more visibility by others for safety.

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My son is Autistic and we had a lot of concersna bout him on a regular bike as he has some impulse issues. He loves this Go-Kart. For us we get the comfort of knowing that he will not fall off this like he could a regular bike. More importantly he has very quickly adapted to riding on it and it has been an excellent reinforcer. Any kid would love this but for me I especially encourage parents of special needs kids to take a look at this as a way to bridge to riding a bike. I could not be happier. I will also say that I had to contact the company over a piece that was missing and not only were they prompt in their reply they sent an entire parts kit should anything need replaced in the future.

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Loved the bike for my son, while it lasted. Two weeks after he got, the fifth time he was riding it, large chunks of the rubber tires in front started coming off. I cleaned the tired just like the instructions said to after every use. It is very disappointed to buy something this expensive for it to fall apart that quickly, and all he rode it on was our smooth black top driveway, nothing rough. Shipping it back, and not getting another one.

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We gave this to our granddaughter for her sixth birthday and she loved it. Her little sister (2yr) wished it was for her! She wouldn't get off of it!! It is very unique. Easy to assemble and something different that keeps their interest.

Discount Blackburn Delphi 3.0 Bicycle Cyclometer

Customer Ratings:
List Price: $39.99
Sale Price: $14.99
Today's Bonus: 63% Off

FINALLY one of the lower-priced cyclometers that delivers everything one of these should, and IT WORKS.

After being fed up and frustrated with other cyclometers that had magnets that worked only intermittently, or had difficult non-intuitive function navigation, or had wireless connections that seemed to lose their connection, this one was a joy!

The setup was simple. It comes with a HUGE user's booklet (really multiple languages in one, but each section is about 1/4" thick). The downside is, the print is really small and sometimes creeps into the binding area. But it's loaded with good info and lots of step-by-step picture diagrams.

The cyclometer includes 2 magnet sensors (for odometer/speed and cadence), and CAN BE INSTALLED TO WORK OFF THE REAR WHEEL (great for trainers). In fact, I'd recommend that, the wires are perfect length with no need to tie up excess. I installed it on a mountain bike that I'm using indoors with a trainer (it's wintertime), but it will install just as nicely on a street or racer bike.

Watch out for the flat magnet that goes on your pedal, the glue isn't that good and it will pop out. I used cloth "gaffer tape" to tape all the wires down, and even put a small piece right over that sensor magnet. (The gaffer tape does not interfere with the magnetic pickup.) (Get gaffer tape from any theatrical supply place, much better than electrical or duct tape.)

The LCD panel is big and easy to read, and after familiarizing yourself with the manual, you'll find the 4 buttons (3 front, 1 on top) become intuitive.

This one is a great bargain for under $40. If Amazon doesn't have it in stock, FIND IT. It's well worth it.

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I've owned this for 4-5 months now. I've been challenged in getting the cadence and speed sensors to pick up and can't seem to figure it out. First of all, the cadence sensor has to be real close to the magnet on the crank, but they don't give you enough rubber padding to make this work, so I had to rig my own thing--then I lost the magnet on the crank and it hasn't worked for months. I suppose I could replace it, but it kind of ticks me off. Lately, the speed sensor is going in and out and I can't seem to figure out why. The magnet on the wheel is right next to the sensor, but it doesn't pick up and then when I'm riding, it will just start to work. Maybe it's the cold weather, because this wasn't a problem all summer. Anyway, this computer is OK, but I'll probably buy a different one next spring.

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I bought the Delphi 3.0 because a local sporting warehouse was having a sale I thought $11 for a new cyclometer with a cadence function sounded like a good deal, so even though my Cateye Mity 8 was working fine, I switched. I wish I hadn't.

My main gripe with my Blackburn is the delay my Cateye (now on another bicycle) reacts instantaneously to changes in speed, starting and stopping. That instantaneous feedback is crucial you know exactly when you've started to slack and can pick up the pace to get back on track. My Blackburn, on the other hand, has a delay of at least two seconds. Every time I come to a stoplight and put my feet on the ground, my Blackburn will read '8 mph' or the like.

Other problems:

Even with the magnets properly aligned I often get erroneous readings. I'll be going 25 mph and all of the sudden it will show me going 14 and then jump back to 25.

The buttons often don't react or overreact. Either you press a button and nothing happens or you press a button and it jumps 2-3 screens (making you have to rotate again.) This is especially aggravating because a lot of functions require you to press and hold the button. I still can't figure out why you have to press and hold to display cadence a.) the button doesn't do anything but turn the cadence display on or off and b.) it's ridiculous that the default is to not display the cadence, that area of the screen isn't used for anything else, which brings me to my next gripe...

The cadence display often disappears. It just decides to turn off every now and then. Again, it wouldn't be so much of a problem if you only had to tap the button to get it back on (instead of pressing and holding) or if the buttons just always worked to begin with.

It freezes. It's frozen on my twice while switching from the A to the B bike. I've just decided to that this feature is no longer usable unless I want to risk losing all of my data again.

It only has one trip feature. I really miss the two trip features from my Cateye.

The wire is ridiculously long. You'd have to be riding a 65 cm time trial bike to use up all the wire here. I have the wire wrapped around my cable housing as much as it will go, my Cannondale's thick downtube twice, and it still gets bunched up around my chainstay. It looks terrible and what's worse is that it adds unnecessary weight. The wire is also considerably thicker (and heavier) than my Cateye's.

It does have two advantages over my Cateye:

1. The cadence feature.

2. The ability to program in your odometer. This is especially useful for when it crashes.

It's still on my bike and I don't have any plans to take it off, but I certainly won't be buying another Blackburn in the future.

Honest reviews on Blackburn Delphi 3.0 Bicycle Cyclometer

Pros:

4 lines of data at once

Wired so no interference

Works on an indoor trainer (rear wheel speed data)

Cons:

No back light

Ziptie width uncommon

Don't overtighten handlebar bracket screw

I have tried a few cyclecomputers. This wired 3.0 modle has proven to be the

most usefull. It can SIMULTANIOUSLY display 4 lines of data, I like, from top to

bottom of the display:

1)Cadence (current)

2)Speed (current)

3)Ride time (cumulative)

4)Distance travled (cumulative)

You can also cycle through Average and Max speed or Average and Max cadence

(Current cadence is in the top data line but average and max can also be cycled

through, on the very bottom line of data). Cycle through various info with the

bottom right button and alternate Avg and Max with the bottom left button.

There is also a clock for time of day.

Unlike a wireless computer there is no delay/lag in updating your current speed

and other data, and no interference from other sources or near by cyclist on a

group ride with uncoded wireless transmitters.

The cadence window (top data line) which is lightly shaded and L shaped usually needs to be activated when you start a ride which is done by simply HOLDING DOWN the lone top edge button untill the the display "wakes up".

You reset ride data to zero by cycling the bottom right button to DISTANCE and

then holding down the bottom CENTER button till the data resets, simple!

The computer is held securly but is easy to remove by simply pushing up on the

bottom edge. This is not so easy if you OVER TIGHTEN THE SCREW ON THE HANDLEBAR

MOUNTING BRACKET !!! Over tightening causes the bracket to bend around the handle bars. OVER TIGHTEN IT to much and you will also pull the electrical contacts on the bracket away from the contacts on the computer and then it CAN NOT WORK !!!!!!

It should also be noted that since this cycle computer picks up speed data from the rear wheel it works when you have your bike clamped in an indoor trainer during the winter, bad weather, or when its to dark to ride outside.

I suggest begining installation with:

(1)the cadence magnet and then the cadence pickup sensor and wire. However you

should first loosly wrap up or tangle up the bracket and its wire on the handle

bar or cables to keep it out of your way. By installing this way you can work

out toward the speed pick up on one end of the wires and toward the handlebar

mount on the other end of the wires and have the 3 main mounting points well

positioned and all slack wires neatly wrapped and secured.

Put the cadence magnet on the left pedal crank arm (non drivetrain/non-chain side)

and snug it some, only a bit (but slideable with some force to position it) then position the pickup sensor on the left chainstay and check the gap. Reposition as needed. You don't want them to hit and click as you pedal but keep the gap small.

Preserve the included zip ties (strong but rare width) for the cadence magnet

especially, and for the two pick up sensors to some degree. Use other zipties

elsewhere and save a couple of the included ones incase you break the one on the

cadence magnet while pedaling and loose the magnet. I also added two small

pieces/bits of 2 sided foam tape to the crank arm, one on either side of the cadence magnet to help keep it inline with the pickup sensor.

(2) Then *loosely* put the wheel/spoke magnet on the opposite side from the

valve stem (helps counter balance the valve stem weight a bit) and wrap the

speed pick up wire around the chain stay, avoiding positioning the wire to close

to the tire near the bottom bracket! Hold the speed pickup in place and move the spoke magnet to line up with and check the GAP SIZE between the two. Get the gap small. If the gap needs to be closed down a wrap or two of handlebar tape on the chain stay and electrical tape over the handlebar tape works well. When you are satisfied with the gap tighten the magnet to the spoke and zip tie the pick up to the chainstay. The zipties will compress the handlebar tape some so be sure the gap to the spoke magnet is small.

(3) Compleet the installation by guiding and zipting the cable up from under the

bottom bracket, avoiding the DERAILLEUR CABLES UNDER THE BOTTOM BRACKET !!! The derailler cables could saw through the wires over time as you shift gears. One ziptie at the bottom of the down tube is all I used on the entire down tube.

Then wrap and ziptie (with a couple of your own small zipties) the bracket wire

around a cable housing leaving some slack so you can turn the handle bars

without pulling the wire out of the bracket or pulling the bikes cables. Choose

between the 2 different thickness of included red rubber handlebar shims as appropriate for your handelbar diameter and tighten the bracket to the handlebars. DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN THE BRACKET SCREW or the contacts won't conduct signals and removing and reinstalling the computer will be difficult.

Trim all zip ties.

Trouble shooting should be done at the magnet gaps and the bracket to computer

contacts for no gap. I also used a q-tip to put a very small amount of some electrical contact grease on the electrical contacts between the back of the cyclecomputer and its handelbar mount. I suspect any grease, even vasaline will help prevent corrosion and therefore help maintain conductivity.

Good riding and enjoy ! EB

Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for Blackburn Delphi 3.0 Bicycle Cyclometer

I've been using the product for 3 weeks (5 10 uses, 80 miles).

PROS: Price, Cadence, Layout, User interface & Controls.

Cons:

Tough install;, Have a handy clever McGyver type around to help with the install

The wires are thick and nasty, they look like a science experiment is taking place on your bike.

The software is a little buggy, but nothing unacceptable (again, because of the price)

Not designed for popping the computer on and off the mount.

If you want to see cadence for cheap, this gets the job done as long as you can handle the install and the Frankenbike look.

Discount STOP Flats2 Road Bicycle Tire Liner

Customer Ratings:

It has been 2 weeks since I installed Stop Flats 2 to both tires. I have given up on expensive tires. Without much hesitation, I have returned my trust to the stock tires that came on my bike. The tires have a perfect record yes, they are puncture free. Adding these tire liners to the already impressive reliability of the stock Kendas I ride on will hopefully help me avoid puncture-caused flats for a long time. One way that they have already saved me is deflecting a sharp thorn that I found lodged on the right shoulder, facing the sidewall instead of the center.

Unlike what many skeptics will tell you, Stop Flats 2 does not pierce itself into the tubes. Rather than producing them with simple plastic, the company used poly... whatever their compound is called. It is soft on the side that goes against your tube, but tough on the side that faces the down on the tire. Based on its construction, the liners should not cut their way into the tube like some other brands out there. If you don't mind the extra weight, which is a couple of ounces, go with these liners. There is almost no difference in ride quality after installation. Don't listen to excuses that haters have to offer. This is not sharp plastic.

Preventing punctures cannot be solved by tires alone. Unless people are willing to ride tires that are as thick and hard as automobile tires, there are not going to be indestructible road bike tires, as they are too thin and light. You know, that "Buy expensive tires and use them alone without protection" excuse simply does not work. You have to spend 40 to 60 dollars on each of them. Once they suffer major cuts from knives, glass, and nails, the holes will become large to the point that covering the inside with patches will not prevent the tube from eventually bulging out. Over time, one will have to pour 50 bucks every couple of months for a brand new tire after each one accumulates too many cuts.

Liners are 10 bucks a pair, plus you don't have to replace them, since they work. It's simple math and common sense. Pay 10 dollars for long term security for your tires, or keep wasting money on world class tires, spare tubes, and patch kits. Never mind the disappointments and time wasted to fix flats. If you are fine with frequent flats as a trade-off for lighter tires, go without Stop Flats 2. If you cannot tolerate flats, get them. After all, how can you be faster if you keep getting flats with "faster" tires?

Update: A friend suffered 2 flats riding through the same streets as I do, while I enjoy the insurance that Stop Flats 2 provide. Still no flats so far, 4 weeks after installation.

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I bought the orange liners for my road bike 2 years ago, and so far they are reliable enough for day to day street riding. I have only had one flat, and it was a slow leak. It kept my tires working long enough to stop and find a gas station.

Stop flats guarantees if you ever get a flat they will give you a new set of liners and a tube, but this is not the case. I sent the same product TWICE to the address on their website, but I had the package returned to me by USPS. Customer service was not responsive to my emails also. Overall good product, but bad customer service.

Best Deals for STOP Flats2 Road Bicycle Tire Liner

My complaint for this item is that the product page did not specify that different colors meant different sizes for you bicycle tire. I order the orange color only to find out that the product was not even close to my tire width. Otherwise, the product is made of good quality material, not the fabric material in cheaper liners.

Honest reviews on STOP Flats2 Road Bicycle Tire Liner

I've had no problems with this product, I ride over some pretty thorny terrain and have stopped having flats. It was pretty easy to install. Overall I am very satisfied. as for an update, I've gone over 300 miles and still no flats. Lovin it!

Find helpful customer reviews and review ratings for STOP Flats2 Road Bicycle Tire Liner

I avg about 250 miles a month on pretty clean, well kept roads, so I don't get a lot of flats in the first place. Of course it does happen on occasion and it is a pain in the XXX when it does. For the winter I put some older, cheap tires on my bike that I am eager to wear out and replace with something of higher quality. I did put this product on to minimize the frequency of flats while I wear out the tires.

This product seems to do as it claims. I have to say i've not had a flat since I have installed these. I will say they are a pain to install and take about twice as long as just replacing a tube. And ensure you have them properly centered between your tire and tube. In fact I thought I did a good job of doing so, but when I took one off today to check on it the stop flat strip was not centered at all...it was serpentine...sometimes shifted too far to the left, sometimes too far to the right. And certainly when you are out on a ride with your club if you do get a flat and need to replace a tube just pull out this liner and put it in your jersey pocket for the ride home...it will take you too long to try and replace your tube and install it while on the side of the road with your pals checking their watches while waiting on you.

The other issue is that these add rotational weight to your tire. If you want a fast, light tire it will probably be more susceptible to flats. So you can add stop flats and have fewer flats. But frankly I would think you would be better served by spending the money you would have spent on these on higher quality tires and forgo the hassle and weight of adding these strps.

I can imagine buying them for some very unique situations, much as in my own case. But for most situation I think you will do better by spending the money on higher quality tires and tubes.

SRAM Crank S600 8-Speed 3.0 Powerspline Reviews

Customer Ratings:

I've been converted to SRAM parts and components over the past year or so. They've come a long way. Taking on the rebuild of my 10 year old Mongoose, I decided that I would use all SRAM parts due to my experience with their solid construction and general high value in price. Please keep in mind that low price does not mean cheap in this instance. This crankset is solidly constructed and I would value it at other cranksets I've seen at at least twice the price.

Once I got the old crankset off, the SRAM installed very easily and turns like butter with a powerspline bottom bracket. I also replaced my whole power train with SRAM X4 parts (derailleurs, rear gear cassette, shifters and chain) and so far they appear to complement each other nicely. Shifting is smooth and precise, although indexing the gears properly with the 8-speed cassette took me some time.

My only watchout is that some of the SRAM parts here may have the wrong picture in the description. Read the description carefully to ensure you get the part you want. I originally ordered a crankset that had a picture of a 3 speed but it turned out to only be a 1 speed (which is what it said if I had read the details). No problem returning it, just set my build back a few days.

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